We have two dogs that love to bury their bones, but one of them also buries his rawhide treats and some of his dog food. I was not sure why until I found out the reasoning behind it.

Ancient dogs survived on whatever they could find or catch. If they managed to get more than they could eat in a sitting, they had to make sure it would be there when they came back to it later.

“They stored spare food by burying it,” says Benjamin Hart, D.V.M., Ph.D., professor of physiology and behavior at the University of California School of Veterinary Medicine at Davis. “It was a pretty resourceful way of keeping leftovers.” Dirt may be gritty and hard on the teeth, but it is also protective.

The temperature in the ground is cooler than it is in the air, so burying food helped it stay fresh longer.

Buried food did not roast in the sun. It did not immediately get covered with flies and insect. All in all, burying food and juicy bones was a very good solution.

Dogs do not need to bury their food anymore. But when they have an excess of rations, they feel that old urge coming on. So they look for a secluded spot, dig a quick hole, and put some goodies away for a rainy day.

If you have been fortunate enough to watch your best friend age, you will also find that he has developed some physical problems and limitations. Taking care of an aging dog requires more of your time and more patience, but it is worth the effort.

Many dogs go deaf as they age. When this happens you can no longer just call for your dog to come. Instead you will need to either get their attention and communicate with a your hands, or maneuver him where you want him to go.

It is even more important to use a leash when on walks, as he will not be able to hear you calling him back if he runs into the street.

Many dogs lose some or all of their sight. This is more difficult to deal with, as you have to make sure they have a clear path through the house and yard. If you have stairs, make sure the railing does not allow them to go through and fall to the ground below.

Any part of the house where your small blind dog could walk off of and drop (an upstairs patio, upstairs landing), or an in-ground pool he could blindly fall into, needs to be somehow blocked. Chicken wire works fine. For a pool you might need to enclose it with a rod iron fence or a temporary chain link fence.

Another thing you need to do to make life easier for your blind friend is not to leave him alone in strange surroundings. This scares a dog and he might end up bothering neighbors with his barking as he calls for you.

There are other conditions the older dog can develop, such as heart problems, diabetes, and poor dental health. Whatever your dog develops, you will find the money needed to keep him healthy is money well spent if you are able to enjoy his company for another year or two. Pet health insurance is a good idea to prevent going into debt, and is available for reasonable rates when your dog is young.

Puppies are fun, but an old dog has become a true friend, someone you know and are comfortable with. At the same time, he is much more attached to you than when he was young. Nothing can replace him, and when the day comes to say good-bye, you feel like you have lost a part of yourself.

When that day comes you might want to consider cremating him and placing his remains in an urn or specially crafted container. Have a crematory in mind, with their phone number handy before you need their services.

More and more people are doing exactly this, and they find it helps to lessen the heartache. Place several pictures of your beloved pet around the urn, perhaps his favorite jacket he wore in the winter, or his collar. This makes a wonderful reminder for you and for your family of a friend you deeply miss.

Injuries, infections, and allergic reactions involving a dog’s eyes are very common.  These problems are usually treated with drops and ointments.

But before treating these types of conditions yourself, it is always best to consult a vet to make sure that you are using the proper medication and dosage.

Never use old medicines to treat new problems.

Although the new problem may look the same as the old one, the wrong treatment could make the condition worse.

1. Several common eye problems cause discharge from the eyes that can stain the dog’s facial hair.  Before applying any type of eye medication, gently wipe away any debris from the corner of the eyes using moist cotton.

2.  The next step is to irrigate the eye using a commercial eyewash solution or one that is provided by a vet. Never use eye drops intended for humans and be careful not to get any cotton fibers on the eye.

3.  The last step is to apply the eye drops. Gently restrain the dog and hold the eye open.

Bring your hand to the eye from behind and above to prevent the dog from getting scared.  Gently squeeze the needed number of drops in the eye.  Allow the eye to bathe in drops for a few seconds.

What pooch does not love getting a treat or two now and then. Dog owners also love giving their dog’s treats. If you have a dog, then you have a good idea of what your dog likes to nibble on.

There are so many treats available these days, and they all come in all different shapes, sizes, colors, and consistencies. For every great dog treat, there are those on the market that are not so good.

These treats can harm your pet by lodging in your dog’s throat or intestines. This can cause choking or worse. If you love treating your canine friend, then you will want to be aware of those treats that are potentially harmful. Even with treats that are not usually dangerous, you need to supervise your dog when they eat.

Greenies: Most dogs really enjoy these treats. They are treats that help clean your dog’s teeth. However, you need to be aware that “greenies” can cause choking.

Dogs eat these very quickly and large chunks lodge in the throat. Young puppies dogs prone to “scarfing” food should not eat this treat.

If your dog eats these treats, be aware of potential vomiting, bloody stools, and difficulty breathing. If you notice any of these symptoms after your dog has eaten this treat, seek medical attention.

Rawhide Chews: What dog does not love snacking on these chewy treats? Rawhides are good because it cleans your dog’s teeth and keeps your dog occupied. However, rawhides are dangerous, as well.

Some rawhides that originate outside of the United States include arsenic-based chemicals as preservatives; these potentially poison your doggie while it chews.

For this reason, make certain any rawhide treat you purchase originates in the United States where this preservative is illegal.

If you cannot tell where a treat originated do not buy it! In addition, you still need to watch your dog when it is munching on rawhides to prevent choking. Make sure you buy rawhides that are the right size for your dog, too.

A small dog needs the smaller sized rawhide treats.

Chocolate: Chocolate is a terrible thing to allow dogs to eat. Of course, sometimes dogs get into candy and cake without your knowledge.

Chocolate is toxic to both dogs and cats, so you need to be aware of your dog sneaking chocolate nibbles, especially around the holidays. Chocolate contains an ingredient called theobromine.

This acts in the canine about the same way caffeine acts in the human. A little will make the doggie hyperactive, but a huge dose may be fatal. If your dog has gotten into chocolate, you need to look for vomiting, shallow breathing, and irregular heartbeat. A visit to the emergency vet unusually results.

Bones:  It seems that it is the right of every dog to be able to crunch on a real bone from time to time. Dogs love bones of all types. However, some bones can be dangerous.

Both chicken and turkey bones are especially dangerous because they are brittle. When your dog chews on them, they can easily splinter and cause choking.

Some pork and beef bones can also cause the same problem. Veterinarians agree that the one of the safest bones you can give your dog is a shinbone. If you must give your dog a bone, make sure you supervise your pooch and if he or she shows signs of bleeding, then you should call your vet immediately for some advice.

This is not to say that you cannot give your dog an occasional treat. That is one of the fun parts of owning a dog. You do need to watch your dog and make sure that your dog is safe when snacking. Always pay attention to what kind of treat you give your dog in case of a recall.

But keep in mind it is up to you to train your puppy to use the crate. For many people crate training is very hard as you may have the tendency to give in to your puppy is she cries.

Like with a baby, training can be harder on the trainer than the one getting trained.

Here are some tips to help you get started.

1.  Make it so the puppy sees the crate in a positive light.  Leave the door open so you can explore the crate together in a non-threatening way. Allow her to walk in and out of it; don’t shut the door on her yet.

2.  Put her things in the crate. You want her to not only be comfortable when she’s in it, but you want it to have familiar smells. Her mat or blanket and maybe her favorite toy are options.

3.  Put the crate where she can still be a part of your life. For example, put it in the room where you watch TV and not outside around the back corner of the house. She wants to see and monitor the action.

4.  Start putting her in it for very short periods of time. If you say “kennel”, walk over to the crate, throw a treat in it, and matter-of-factly shut the door when she goes in, she’ll be okay with it for a short while.

The best time to start this is right after a play session when she’s tired. Do not leave her in there for very long. You’ll want to gradually build up to longer and longer sessions. Eventually when she hears the word “kennel”, she will go inside the crate and wait for her treat.

5.  Never give her attention if she is whining to be let out. If she whines and you let her out, she’s learned this is the way to have you open the door and every time you do that, you reinforce this behavior.

6. Remember the crate is not a substitution for your attention. If you’re home and able to watch your pup, then don’t put her in the crate. Better yet, play with her often and encourage her to use the crate when she wants to rest.

7.  Puppies do not like to “go” where they live, so it usually doesn’t take too long for them to learn to hold it while they’re in the crate. This means you must be diligent in letting your dog out often to relieve herself.

Crate training your puppy results in a puppy who is housebroken fairly quickly, has a safe place to stay when you’re not around, and has her own haven.

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First you need to decide on what breed of dog you want. Some things you should learn about the breed you choose are:

* The full grown size of the breed
* The average lifespan of the breed
* The general temperament and disposition of the breed
* Grooming and coat care requirements
* Learn what potentially inherited health problems this breed is prone to?

Looking for dog breeders is often as easy as opening the classified advertising section of the newspaper. Other sources can be found by checking the Internet, pet supply stores, dog shows, a friend’s recommendation or asking your Veterinarian if they know a local breeder they can recommend.

Get to Know the Dog Breeder

Have a list of questions prepared to ask the dog breeder when you contact them. Based on their responses you will be able to tell if they are reliable, professional, trustworthy and if you want to purchase a puppy from them.

Your list of questions should include the following:

* Are the puppies raised in a home or in a kennel?
* Does the breeder raise several different breeds of dogs?
* How long have they been breeding dogs?
* Are the father and mother on the premises?
* Can you visit them?
* What is the age of the puppies?
* When can you take the puppy home? 8 weeks should be the youngest.
* Do the puppies have a Veterinarian certificate of health?
* What shots and deworming have the puppies had and when?
* Are the puppies crate or paper trained?
* Have the puppies been around small children and socialized with people?
* Are the Registration papers and transfer applications completed.
* Will you be given the lineage of the puppy and a family tree?
* Does the breeder have a written contract for you that specifies your rights and the breeder’s rights?
* Does the breeder have a Health Guarantee and Veterinary Health Certificate along with the contact information for the Veterinarian that examined the puppy?
* Will the breeder give you references? A good breeder will be happy to give you references of clients who have purchased a puppy who will be happy to share their experiences with you.

* Will the breeder supply a New Puppy Care Kit which includes:

- Registration application papers
- Veterinarian Certificate of Health
- Dates of inoculations, deworming and any procedures done
- Puppy Care Instructions
- A small supply of food the puppy is eating to help the puppy adjust to his new home.

A Responsible Dog Breeder Wants to Know You

The responsible dog breeder always has the best interest of both the puppy and the clients in mind. They should ask you questions as well.

Some of the questions may seem personal. A responsible dog breeder will want to get to know you to make sure that the puppy is the right choice foryou.

Some of the questions they should ask you are:

* Have you owned this breed of dog before?
* What do you know about this breed?
* What attracts you to this breed of dog?
* Do you plan to show or breed the dog or is it for a pet?
* Do you have any other dogs or cats?
* Do you have any children in your home? What are their ages?
* What type of home will the puppy live in? Apartment, single family home in a neighborhood or on a farm?
* What size of yard do you have? Is it fenced? What kind of fence?
* Is there anyone at home most of the day or will the puppy be left alone for long periods of time?
* Where will the puppy be if left alone all day?

Some breeders may ask to visit your home before selling you a puppy. As a buyer, you will want to checkout where the puppies are raised and look at their parents.

Your heart may go out to the puppies you see for sale in a pet store. You should never buy a puppy from a pet store since most come from a puppy mill or a breeding farm.

They are sold on a first come, first serve basis with little to no background information. Questions aren’t asked of the buyer and no attention is paid to the future of the puppy’s welfare.

Responsible dog breeders will help you find the puppy that is right for you. They will be happy to give you tips on raising and caring for your new bundle of joy. A good dog breeder will want to stay in touch with you after you have taken your puppy home.

They will want to know how you and the puppy are adjusting to each other. A responsible breeder will want to assure you they are available to answer your questions or address any concerns you may have.

As long as you do your research homework and find a suitable dog breed and a responsible dog breeder, it’s a sure thing that you will find the perfect puppy.

What is Spinal Arthritis?

As dogs grow older, the bones of the vertebral column deteriorate. The associated bone spurs and inflammation of the nerves and surrounding tissues is spinal arthritis, or spinal osteoarthritis. It is a progressive, degenerative disease that is painful and debilitating and can even shorten your dog’s life.

Dogs are reluctant to show pain, either because of the instinct to hide weakness in order to retain their status in the pack or because of a desire to make their owners happy.

Because of this reluctance, as well as the fact that arthritis typically comes on gradually and unobtrusively, recognizing the disease is often difficult. It’s important for owners to keep close tabs on their older dogs to make sure they’re not suffering the pain of spinal arthritis in silence.

Symptoms to Look For

The onset of spinal osteoarthritis is slow and insidious. You’ll likely see no sudden changes in behavior, which is why you must monitor your dog as he ages.

Signs to look for include:
Shift in posture,
Slowness of movement,
Reluctance to climb stairs or jump on furniture,
Reluctance to play, especially vigorous games such as Frisbee,
Stiffness when getting up,
Lack of appetite,
Grumpiness,
Limping or weakness in limbs,
Whining or sensitivity to touch, and
Paralysis.

If you begin noticing some of these changes, it’s time for a visit to your veterinarian. Through some simple tests and most likely X-rays of the spine, she can give you a definitive diagnosis and prescribe treatment.

Canine Spinal Arthritis Treatment

Treatment for spinal arthritis typically consists of three types of approaches: non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs) to control pain and inflammation; treatments such as chondroitin and glucosamine to slow the progression of the disease; and lifestyle changes such as weight control, regular low-impact exercise, and chiropractic and massage therapy to further ease the discomfort of arthritis.

It’s also important to modify your dog’s environment to maximize his comfort. Things such as a soft bed and floor coverings can alleviate the soreness that comes from cold, hard floors. And if possible, modify the dog’s living quarters such that he can avoid stairs as much as possible.

Definitely enlist the help of your veterinarian. She’s your best ally in helping to make your dog’s remaining as pain free and comfortable as possible.

Yet there might be one aspect of his little budding personality that you might not be so fond of – his chewing. Oh sure, if your little canine friend could find a way to limit his chewing to chew toys and other approved materials, you would have no problem.

Unfortunately, it seems that he has declared anything and everything fair game, whether it is your pair of prized slippers, or your purse. Something has to give – preferably your dog’s habit.

Here are four ways to stop your pup from being chew-happy.

Have plenty of appropriate chew toys around – not just one or two. Having one or two in every room where your dog may spend any amount of time will actually increase the likelihood that he will make a good choice and go straight for the chew toy rather than your Gucci handbag.

If an accident does happen, and you catch your dog in the act of happily chewing up yet another pay of shoes, simply take away the item and replace it with a chew toy. Do not scold him, do not yell, simply praise him for taking the other chew toy – after all, you want him to chew, so if you scold him, he may think that his chewing itself is wrong.

Additionally, do not select chew toys that mimic forbidden chew items, such as shoes, newspapers, or pillows. Manufacturers love to shape chew toys into these items, but to a pup it is simply confusing why one shoe is okay to chew on (the one made from rawhide) and one is not (the one made from imported Italian leather).

If your dog has the unfortunate habit of chewing on the furniture, you probably have a bigger problem on your hands. Giving him plenty of appropriate chew toys is still important, but you may need to also take on some chemical warfare.

There are several products on the market that you can spray on furniture and bedding that will give these items a taste so bad that your dog will stay away from them. The downside to this approach rests on the fact that it is only temporary, and some dogs do not appear to be affected by it altogether.

Yet if you do have a dog that is negatively affected by the smell, you will have bought yourself some time during which to redirect his urge to chew to the more acceptable materials that are available.

Do not lead your dog into temptation. Do not leave your dog alone with your nice, new, fresh smelling leather shoes in easy reach.

Similarly, do not leave your couch cushion on which you spilled this morning’s bacon grease sitting there with the thought that you will get to it later. Such smells are a strong temptation for dogs, and perhaps one that he cannot withstand for hours.

Some veterinarians will suggest for you to crate your dog. While this approach works, it is reserved only for very short periods of time, and thus is not a real solution for someone who works an eight o-clock to five o’clock job. Instead, rope off an area in a room where you want to keep your doggie while you are away.

Use baby gates to limit his access to other areas of the house. Make sure he can reach his food (if you leave out kibbles) and most certainly his water, that he can lie down comfortably, and that the area is neither too hot in the blazing sun of the afternoon nor too cold from the drafts that are coming in from underneath the door.

Applying the “Goldilocks principle,” the area should be “just right.” While you train your dog to use his appropriate chew toys, you can keep him confined during your absences until you are certain that you have been able to redirect his attention to approved chewing materials.

These messages are highly potent as the owner lovingly strokes the dog and commiserates with a cross between baby talk and sincere empathy, “It’s okay, no one will hurt you.”
The message the owner intends to send to the dog is the information that the situation is not threatening. The message the dog receives through the stroking and baby talk is that acting and being fearful is rewarding and pleasing to the owner.

Being consoled and stroked overshadows any information the dog could receive from the environment should he be allowed to remain in the situation without any intervention.
Furthermore, the dog is reinforced for exhibiting fearful behavior by the pleasure of being stroked and consoled. Avoid the strong temptation to lovingly comfort the fearful dog lest he learn to act frightened for subsequent reinforcement.